Yes, you can put a longer bar on most chainsaws — but there are strict limits. The simple rule: you can usually go one size up (typically 2 inches longer) safely. Going 4 inches longer is the absolute maximum for domestic saws, and beyond that you risk overheating the engine, starving the chain of oil, and increasing kickback to dangerous levels.
Your chainsaw manufacturer always specifies a maximum bar length for a reason. Exceeding it isn’t just poor practice; it damages the saw and makes it unpredictable to use.
How Far Can You Safely Upsize Your Chainsaw Bar?
u can’t stretch a short chain to fit.
to measure its thickness, or use the coin trick: slip a 10p coin or penny into the groove. If the coin fits snugly alongside the drive link, you’ve found your gauge.
Common gauges:
| Gauge (Decimal) | Gauge (Fraction) | Metric | Common Saw Models |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0.043″ | 1.1 mm | 1.1 mm | Small battery saws, mini chainsaws |
| 0.050″ | 1.3 mm | 1.3 mm | Makita, DeWalt, Milwaukee battery saws |
| 0.058″ | 1.5 mm | 1.5 mm | Domestic perrol saws (most common) |
| 0.063″ | 1.6 mm | 1.6 mm | Professional and semi-pro saws |
Where to find it: Gauge is stamped on your bar. Look for markings like “.058” or “1.5mm”.
Step 4: Count the Drive Links
Drive link count is how many teeth (drive links) are on your chain. This determines how long the chain is and must match your bar length exactly.
To count drive links:
- Remove the chain from the saw.
- Lay it flat on a table.
- Count every single tooth/drive link. This is tedious but essential.
- Write down the number.
Drive link counts typically range from 30 to 80 links, depending on bar length. A 16-inch bar usually needs 55–57 drive links. An 18-inch bar needs 60–62. A 14-inch bar needs 50–52.
Why count yourself? Because if you order the wrong number of links, the chain will either be too loose (and fall off mid-cut) or too tight (and snap). No guessing here.
Where to Find Specs Without Measuring
If you’d rather not measure, these sources will give you the information directly:
- Your user manual — check the maintenance or parts section. Chain specs are always listed.
- The chainsaw bar — most bars have stamps showing bar length and gauge. Pitch may also be printed.
- The chain itself — modern chains often have pitch and gauge stamped into the metal.
- The manufacturer’s website — search for your exact model number. Spec sheets list everything.
- Oregon’s online chain finder — visit oregonproducts.com and enter your saw model. It tells you the exact chain.
This is the easiest route if your chainsaw is a common model. Most domestic saws are well-documented online.
Common Measurement Mistakes
Measuring bar length wrong: Measuring from the front of the housing rather than where the bar enters. Result: you think you have a 16-inch bar when you actually have a 14-inch. Always measure the cutting length.
Confusing pitch variants: There are two different 3/8-inch pitches: 3/8 inch Low Profile (LP) and standard 3/8 inch. They are NOT interchangeable. Check your chain carefully—it should say LP if that’s what you have.
Miscounting drive links: Counting too fast and getting the number wrong by 2 or 3 links. Count twice. Drive link count must be exact.
Confusing gauge with pitch: These are two different things. Pitch is the teeth spacing. Gauge is the link thickness. Both must match.
Assuming all bars are the same: Two different manufacturers can have different bars for the same saw. Always verify the bar on your saw, not just the saw model.
Quick Reference: What Chain Do You Need?
Once you have your three measurements (bar length, pitch, gauge, drive link count), use this table to confirm you’ve got them right:
| Bar Length | Typical Pitch | Typical Gauge | Typical DL Count | Example Saw |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 12″ | .325″ or 3/8″ LP | 1.3 mm or 1.5 mm | 40–43 | Battery saws, small domestic |
| 14″ | .325″ or 3/8″ LP | 1.5 mm | 50–52 | Makita DUC353, DeWalt DCMCS575 |
| 16″ | .325″ or 3/8″ LP | 1.5 mm | 55–57 | Milwaukee 2727-20, Stihl MS170 |
| 18″ | 3/8″ | 1.5 mm or 1.6 mm | 60–62 | Husqvarna 445, Stihl MS250 |
| 20″ | 3/8″ | 1.6 mm | 66–68 | Professional saws |
Use this as a sanity check. If your measurements don’t fall roughly in line with this table, re-measure.
Tools That Make Measuring Easier
Buy a dedicated chain measuring tool on Amazon — these have gauges and pitch rulers built in. Worth the few quid if you plan to replace chains regularly.
Oregon sharpening and measuring kit — includes everything you need to measure and maintain your chain.
Watch: Video Guide
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a different pitch on my chainsaw?
No. Pitch is hardwired into your bar sprocket and engine. Using the wrong pitch will cause the chain to slip, jam, or snap. Always use the exact pitch your saw was designed for.
What if I have an old chainsaw and can’t find the specs anywhere?
Measure the chain. Count the drive links, measure the pitch and gauge, and note the bar length. Take a photo of your chain and model number to an independent chainsaw dealer—they can identify it in minutes.
Can I put a longer bar on my chainsaw?
You can, but not by much. Your saw’s sprocket is designed for a specific pitch and bar length. Going up one size (e.g., 14″ to 16″) is sometimes possible, but you risk overworking the engine. Check your manual or contact the manufacturer.
What’s the difference between .325″ and 3/8″ LP?
.325″ is a different pitch—the teeth are spaced closer together. 3/8″ LP (Low Profile) is a variant of 3/8″ with a lower-height tooth design. They are NOT interchangeable. Always verify which one your saw uses.
Do I need to match the brand of chain to my saw?
No. If the pitch, gauge, and drive link count match, you can use any brand. Oregon makes compatible replacement chains for virtually every chainsaw model, regardless of who made the original saw.
Where can I find my chainsaw’s model number?
Check the engine housing, usually on a sticker or stamped into the plastic. Model numbers are often printed alongside the year and engine displacement (cc). Once you have the model number, search online or check the manual for exact chain specs.
What does “DL count” mean?
DL stands for “drive link” count. It’s the total number of teeth on your chain. This number must match your bar length exactly. Too few links and the chain will be too loose; too many and it will be too tight.
