What drill bit do I need for brick?

A masonry bit with a tungsten carbide tip (TCT). Use it in a hammer drill set to percussion mode. Regular HSS metal bits will blunt on brick and won't work. TCT tips are designed specifically to fracture brick aggregate as the hammer action pounds 40–60 times per second.

Can I use my standard drill on brick without hammer mode?

Not effectively. Standard (non-percussion) drills won't make meaningful progress on brick. You need hammer/percussion mode ON. If your drill doesn't have hammer mode, consider investing in a hammer drill (around £50–£300 depending on corded or cordless).

What drill bit size for a 5mm wall plug?

A 5mm masonry bit. The wall plug size always matches the drill bit size. A 5mm hole drilled with a 5mm bit will hold a 5mm wall plug securely. Oversizing the hole causes the plug to spin and fail.

What speeds should I use for drilling brick?

Soft brick: 600–800 RPM. Standard brick: 400–600 RPM. Hard engineering brick: 300–500 RPM. High speeds overheat the TCT tip and cause it to separate. Let the hammer action do the work rather than relying on raw speed.

Why did my masonry bit overheat?

Running the drill too fast or applying too much pressure causes heat buildup. The TCT tip can separate from the steel shank if overheated (you'll see blue discolouration). Reduce speed to 400–600 RPM and use lighter, steady pressure. Once overheated, the bit is compromised—replace it.

What Drill Bit for Brick & Masonry (2026 Guide)

Q: Why is my bit spinning in the hole without progressing?

Likely because hammer mode is OFF. Check your drill's mode selector and switch to percussion/hammer mode. You should feel vibration in your hands. Without hammer action, a standard drill won't have enough force to progress on brick.

Table of Contents

What Drill Bit for Brick & Masonry — Complete Guide

Drilling brick requires one core thing: a masonry bit with a tungsten carbide tip (TCT), used in a hammer drill set to percussion mode. Regular HSS metal bits will blunt instantly on brick. The hammer action is what breaks the aggregate—speed alone won’t work.

This guide covers which bits to buy, what sizes you need, speeds, technique, and common mistakes that waste time and bits.

Masonry Bits Explained — Why You Need TCT

What Is a Masonry Bit?

A masonry bit has a tungsten carbide tip (TCT) bonded to a steel shank. The TCT is extremely hard—much harder than brick, concrete, or stone aggregate. As the hammer drill pounds 40–60 times per second, the TCT teeth fracture the aggregate rather than cutting it smoothly like an HSS bit would.

Visual difference: Masonry bits look wider at the tip than metal bits. The tip appears chisel-like, not pointed. This flattened, spade-shaped tip is what does the work.

Why Not Regular HSS Bits?

HSS (High-Speed Steel) is designed for cutting metal, not smashing aggregate. On brick, an HSS bit will:

Blunt within 2–3 holes
Heat up and lose temper (making it even softer)
Slip and spin in the hole instead of penetrating
Possibly snap from the vibration

You’ll waste the bit and the material. Always use TCT masonry bits for brick and concrete.

Shank Type: Round vs. SDS Plus

Round shank (6mm most common): Fits standard household drills and lighter hammer drills. Good for DIY wall plug holes (5–10mm). Affordable, widely available.

SDS Plus shank (10mm keyed): Fits mid-range SDS drills (600–1200W). More reliable under heavy use because the shank is locked into the chuck (no slipping). Better for larger holes or production work.

Choice rule: If you’re hanging a picture frame or kitchen shelf, round shank is fine. If you’re a tradesman drilling 50+ holes daily, SDS Plus is more reliable.

Amazon: Round shank masonry bit sets on Amazon

Amazon: SDS Plus masonry bit sets on Amazon

Brick Types and Drill Bit Selection

Standard Clay Brick (Red Brick)

Soft to medium hardness. Drills relatively easily. Any TCT masonry bit will work fine.

Speeds: 400–600 RPM with hammer action.

Typical sizes: 5mm, 6mm, 8mm for wall plugs. 10mm for larger fixings.

Engineering Brick (Dark, Very Hard)

Dense, compacted clay with low water absorption. These are tough. Regular masonry bits struggle.

What to do: Use an SDS Plus drill for better torque control. Or upgrade to a carbide-heavy masonry bit (higher carbide content in the tip).

Speeds: 300–500 RPM (slower than soft brick).

Tip: Go slow and let the hammer do the work. Don’t force it.

Facing Brick (Coloured, Variable Hardness)

Can vary from soft to hard depending on the clay used. Standard masonry bits usually work.

Caution: Facing brick is decorative. If you’re drilling into it, mark carefully to avoid damage to the finish. Masking tape helps prevent surface spalling.

Lightweight Brick or Aircrete Block

Very soft and porous. Drills easily with even basic masonry bits.

Speeds: 600–800 RPM (you can run a bit faster).

Sizes: Any size works—5mm to 16mm holes are no problem.

Drill Bit Sizes for Common Jobs

Job	Drill Bit Size	Wall Plug Type	Typical Load
Picture frame, mirror, light fitting	5mm	Red nylon 5mm plug	8–12kg
Kitchen shelf, bathroom mirror	6mm	Grey nylon 6mm plug	12–18kg
Heavy shelf, radiator, towel rail	8mm	Brown nylon 8mm plug	18–25kg
Very heavy item, TV bracket	10mm	Blue nylon 10mm plug	25–40kg
Larger holes (cable, drain)	12–16mm	Heavy-duty anchors (not plugs)	30–50kg

Golden rule: The drill bit size equals the wall plug size. A 5mm hole requires a 5mm bit for a 5mm plug. Oversizing the hole causes the plug to spin and fail.

Hammer Drill Settings and Speed

Two-Mode Drills (Rotation + Hammer)

Most modern cordless and corded drills have a selector switch with at least two modes:

Mode 1: Rotation only (standard drill). No percussion. Use this for metal, timber, tiles.

Mode 2: Rotation + Hammer (percussion drill). The chuck rapidly drives the bit forward and back while spinning. Use this for masonry, concrete, stone.

Always use Mode 2 for brick. If you drill brick in rotation-only mode, you’re relying on raw speed and pressure to cut—it will blunt the bit and you’ll get nowhere.

Optimal Speeds

Soft brick (clay, lightweight block): 600–800 RPM with hammer action.

Standard brick (red brick): 400–600 RPM with hammer action.

Engineering brick (hard): 300–500 RPM with hammer action.

Why slow? High speeds overheat the TCT tip. The carbide loses hardness and the tip separates from the steel shank. You’ve wasted a £2–£8 bit.

Pro tip: If your drill has variable speed control (trigger), use medium pressure on the trigger. Let the hammer action do the work—you shouldn’t need to press hard. The drill should be “bouncing” slightly as it hammers.

Technique for Drilling Brick

Step 1: Mark Your Spot

Use a pencil or chalk to mark where you want the hole. For precision, use a centre punch to make a small indent—this stops the bit from wandering on initial contact.

Step 2: Insert the Bit

Check that the masonry bit is fully seated in the chuck (round shank or SDS Plus). Tighten the chuck firmly. If using a round shank, use the keyless chuck—hand-tight is usually enough, but a slightly over-tightened chuck prevents slipping.

Step 3: Switch to Hammer Mode

Set the drill to rotation + hammer mode. If you’re unsure which mode, look for a small switch or toggle—usually marked with a hammer icon for percussion mode and a plain drill icon for standard mode.

Step 4: Apply Gentle Pressure

Position the bit at the mark and squeeze the trigger gently. Start at low speed. The drill will begin hammering—you’ll feel the impact. Don’t jam the drill in hard; gentle, steady pressure works better. Let the hammer do the work.

Pressure principle: More pressure does not mean faster drilling. In fact, too much pressure can stall the motor or cause the bit to slip. Steady, light-to-medium pressure is optimal.

Step 5: Monitor Progress

As you drill, dust will spray out (or a plug of brick dust will form). If you’re hardly making progress after 10–15 seconds, pull back and check:

Is hammer mode ON? (You should feel vibration in your hands.)
Is the drill speed in the 400–600 RPM range? (Too high and the bit overheats.)
Is the bit actually a masonry bit with TCT? (If it’s an old HSS bit, it won’t work.)

Step 6: Withdraw Frequently

Every few seconds, pull the bit back slightly (1–2 cm) without turning the drill off. This helps clear brick dust from the hole. A clogged hole causes friction and heat buildup.

Step 7: Finish

Once you’ve drilled to depth (usually 30–50mm for wall plugs), slowly release the trigger and withdraw the bit. The hole should be clean and the right diameter for your wall plug.

Common Problems and Solutions

Problem: Bit isn’t progressing (stuck)

Likely cause: Hammer mode is OFF.

Solution: Check the drill’s mode selector. Switch to percussion/hammer mode. You should feel vibration in your hands. Try again.

Problem: Bit is spinning but no dust coming out

Likely cause: The bit isn’t actually a masonry bit (it’s HSS), or the TCT tip is worn/damaged.

Solution: Replace with a new TCT masonry bit. Check the bit’s packaging—it should say “masonry” or “brick” and show a TCT or carbide tip.

Problem: Bit overheating (tip discolours or separates)

Likely cause: Running at too high speed or too much pressure.

Solution: Reduce drill speed to 400–500 RPM. Use lighter pressure. Let the hammer action do the work. If the tip has already separated, the bit is ruined—buy a new one.

Problem: Hole is off-centre or wider than the bit

Likely cause: The bit is slipping in the chuck (round shank not fully tightened, or shank is bent).

Solution: Tighten the chuck harder. Check that the shank isn’t bent (compare to a new bit). If bent, replace the bit. If the chuck is worn, consider upgrading to an SDS Plus drill for better chuck grip.

Problem: Brick is cracking or spalling around the hole

Likely cause: Excessive pressure or too high speed causing impact damage.

Solution: Reduce pressure and speed. Use masking tape around the hole to reduce surface spalling (tape prevents chips from spreading). Mark your holes carefully to avoid hitting mortar joints (which are easier to break).

Masonry Bit Sets: What to Buy

Budget Sets (£5–£15)

Typically include 5–8 bits: 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm. Good for one-off jobs like hanging a shelf or TV bracket.

Amazon: Budget masonry bit sets on Amazon

Mid-Range Sets (£15–£30)

10–15 bits, typically 2–3mm through 10–12mm. Include some larger sizes. Better quality tips. Suitable for regular homeowner DIY.

Amazon: Mid-range masonry bit sets on Amazon

Professional Sets (£30+)

SDS Plus shanks, 15–20+ bits, often in a storage case. Higher carbide content in tips. Designed for tradesmen who drill every day.

Amazon: Professional SDS Plus masonry sets on Amazon

Recommendation

For most homeowners, a mid-range round-shank set (£15–£20) is perfect. It covers all common wall plug sizes and costs less than £2 per bit. For tradesmen, SDS Plus sets are worth the investment for durability and chuck reliability.

Maintenance and Storage

Keep bits dry. Store in a dry location. Rust on the shank can cause slipping in the chuck.

Don’t drop bits. Dropped bits can have bent shanks (causing off-centre holes) or damaged TCT tips (causing them to separate). Handle with care.

Clean after use. Wipe off brick dust and debris. A small brush helps clear the flutes.

Retire dull bits. Once a bit is blunt (you’ll notice significant loss of progress), retire it. Trying to squeeze more use out of a dull bit just ruins workpieces and frustrates you.

Watch: Video Guide

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a metal drill bit on brick?

Not effectively. Regular HSS metal bits are designed for cutting steel and aluminium. On brick, they’ll blunt in 2–3 holes and won’t progress. Always use a TCT masonry bit.

What if I don’t have a hammer drill?

You’re limited. A standard (non-percussion) drill won’t work well on brick—you’d need to apply enormous pressure and speed just to make slow progress. If you plan to drill brick regularly, invest in a hammer drill (around £50–£150 for a decent corded model, or £100–£300 for cordless).

Why does the drill jump around so much?

The hammer action is extremely powerful. Sudden vibration or jerking usually means the bit is catching on hard aggregate or a stone inside the brick. Use a lighter grip and let the drill do the work rather than forcing it. If the jump is severe, pull back and start again slightly to the side.

How deep should I drill for a wall plug?

Typically 30–40mm for standard wall plugs (5–6mm). Deeper is fine—just match or slightly exceed the plug’s length so it’s fully seated in the hole. The plug should be flush or slightly recessed into the brick, not sticking out.

Can I drill through mortar instead of brick?

Mortar is softer and drills easily, but it’s not recommended. Mortar is brittle and doesn’t grip a wall plug well. Always try to drill into brick. If you must use mortar (no choice), use a larger wall plug or consider a toggle anchor instead.

Why did my bit overheat and turn blue?

Excessive heat (from high speed or excessive pressure) caused the steel shank to lose temper and discolour. The TCT tip will likely separate soon after. Reduce speed and pressure next time. Once a bit is overheated, it’s compromised—replace it.