Plasterboard (drywall) itself is soft and easy to drill—almost any bit works. But here’s the catch: knowing what’s *behind* the plasterboard makes all the difference. Is it a brick wall? A timber stud? A hollow cavity? This determines both the bit you use and the fixings you’ll need.
Drilling Through Plasterboard: The Basics
Plasterboard is gypsum between two paper layers. It’s essentially soft chalk. Any sharp bit will cut through it in seconds. HSS twist bits, masonry bits, even wood bits work fine.
The real skill is in what comes next: finding out what’s behind the plasterboard and choosing the right fixings for that surface.
Drill Bits for Plasterboard
HSS Twist Bits
Standard High Speed Steel bits. These are your safe choice. They cut through plasterboard smoothly and won’t damage the board. Sizes 2–13mm are typical.
Speed: 2000–3000 RPM. Plasterboard is soft, so speed isn’t critical. Fast is fine.
Pressure: Gentle. Plasterboard is fragile—too much pressure can crumble the board around the hole or crush it if there’s a void behind.
Best for: General fixings, picture hangers, light shelves.
Masonry Bits
Masonry bits have a wider, more aggressive cutting edge. They work on plasterboard but they’re overkill—they’ll cut through plasterboard just as easily as HSS bits. The advantage is if you’re drilling through both plasterboard and into brick behind (in one pass), a masonry bit handles both.
Speed: 1500–2500 RPM on plasterboard (slower than HSS because masonry bits are designed for harder materials).
Best for: Drilling plasterboard and into brick/block behind in one hole (e.g., for heavy shelving directly into brick).
Spade Bits
Spade bits (flat bits) work on plasterboard but are rough and crude. They can crumble the board edges if you’re not careful. Not recommended—use a twist bit instead.
Brad Point Bits
Brad point bits are overkill for plasterboard and unnecessary, but they work and produce clean holes if you want them.
What’s Behind Your Plasterboard? Finding Out
This is the critical part. Plasterboard is just a surface. What you anchor into depends on what’s behind it:
1. Timber Stud Wall (Hollow Partition)
Most interior walls in homes are timber frames covered with plasterboard. When you drill through the board into the cavity, there’s nothing behind it except air. This is where cavity wall fixings come in.
How to tell: Tap the wall. A hollow sound = cavity wall. Studs are typically at 400mm or 600mm centres (measure from corner).
Fixing strategy: Use cavity wall plugs (spring toggles, butterfly anchors, or self-drill fixings designed for cavities).
2. Brick/Block Wall
External walls and load-bearing walls are often solid brick or concrete block behind the plasterboard. This is your best-case scenario for heavy fixings.
How to tell: Tap the wall—solid sound, no hollow ring. Use a small nail to check—it won’t push in easily.
Fixing strategy: Switch to a masonry bit and drill into the brick. Use standard wall plugs and screws rated for brick (they handle heavy loads).
3. Metal Stud Wall
Modern commercial or some residential buildings use metal studs instead of timber. Plasterboard screws directly to metal frames.
How to tell: You’ll hear a hollow ring, but when you drill, you’ll hit metal (bit will slip or make a squealing sound).
Fixing strategy: Use self-drilling metal fixings or self-tapping screws designed for metal studs. Never use wall plugs—they won’t grip metal.
Plasterboard Fixings and Cavity Wall Anchors
Spring Toggle Anchors (Best for Heavy Loads)
A spring toggle is two metal bars hinged together. You push them through a hole in the plasterboard, and they spring open behind the board, creating a large bearing surface. Extremely strong—can hold 15–25 kg depending on size.
How to use:
- Drill a hole through plasterboard (3–6mm depending on toggle size)
- Insert the toggle wings through the hole (they’re folded)
- Push through until the wings snap open behind the board
- Pull the bolt to draw the toggle tight against the back of the board
- Screw in your hook, shelf bracket, or fitting
Load rating: 15–25 kg per anchor depending on size. Excellent for heavy items.
Best for: Heavy shelves, TV brackets, radiators, anything that needs serious support.
Downside: If you need to remove it, you lose the anchor (it stays in the wall).
Amazon: Spring Toggle Anchors on Amazon UK
Butterfly Anchors (Good All-Purpose)
Similar to spring toggles but lighter-duty. Two metal or plastic wings that flip out behind the board. Rated 10–15 kg. Cheaper than toggles and reusable if you pull them out carefully.
How to use:
- Drill hole (5–6mm for standard butterfly anchors)
- Insert anchor through hole
- Tighten the screw—this pulls the wings open behind the board
- Leave the screw in place (it’s part of the anchor)
Load rating: 10–15 kg (less than spring toggles).
Best for: Shelves, picture frames, light fixtures. General-purpose cavity fixings.
Amazon: Butterfly Wall Anchors on Amazon UK
Self-Drill Cavity Fixings (Modern Option)
These are metal screws with special tips that drill through plasterboard and create their own anchor as they spin. No pre-drilling needed—just push the screw in with a drill at high speed, and it cuts through plasterboard and opens wings or barbs behind the board.
Load rating: 10–20 kg depending on type.
Best for: Quick work when you don’t want to pre-drill. Good all-purpose cavity fixings.
Plastic Plug + Screw (Not Recommended for Hollow Walls)
The classic Rawl plug in wood or plastic. These work on brick but NOT on hollow plasterboard cavities—there’s nothing for the plug to expand into. If you use a plastic plug on a cavity wall, the screw will just spin and loosen over time.
Exception: If you’ve confirmed a solid brick or block wall behind the plasterboard (not a cavity), plastic plugs and Rawl plugs work perfectly for good load ratings.
Finding Studs: Magnetic Stud Finders
Studs are strong points to anchor into. If you can hit a stud, you can screw directly into the timber (or metal) and hold much more weight than you can with cavity fixings.
Stud spacing: Typically 400mm or 600mm centres (measure from the corner). Studs are usually near corners and around door/window frames.
How to find studs:
- Magnetic stud finder: Finds metal fixing plates inside studs. Cheapest and most reliable for timber studs. Drag it horizontally across the wall—it clicks when it finds metal.
- Electronic stud finder: More expensive, finds density changes (studs are denser than cavity). Can be unreliable in thick plasterboard.
- The knock test: Tap along the wall. A solid thud = stud; a hollow sound = cavity. Rough but works.
- Drill test: In an inconspicuous spot, drill at 450mm intervals. When the bit suddenly goes from resistance to freely spinning, you’ve hit a cavity. The stud is just before that point.
Amazon: Magnetic Stud Finders on Amazon UK
When You Hit a Stud
If you can hit a stud, you’re in luck. Drill through plasterboard into the timber (or metal) stud and screw directly into it. No cavity fixings needed. Weight capacity is very high (30 kg+).
Screw into timber studs: Use wood screws (3–4mm diameter).
Screw into metal studs: Use self-tapping metal screws or tek screws designed for metal.
When the Wall is Solid Brick/Block Behind
If you’ve confirmed solid brick or concrete block behind the plasterboard, switch technique:
- Drill through plasterboard with HSS bit (small pilot hole)
- Continue drilling into the brick/block with a masonry bit. You may need to switch bits mid-hole or use a masonry bit from the start.
- Use standard wall plugs and screws rated for brick (load capacity 20–40 kg depending on plug size)
- The plasterboard is now just cosmetic—your anchor is in the solid wall behind
Common Plasterboard Fixing Problems
| Problem | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Shelf suddenly drops / screw spins and loosens | Used wrong fixing for cavity (e.g. Rawl plug in hollow wall). No anchor in cavity. | Use cavity fixings (toggles, butterfly anchors, self-drill fixings). If weight is heavy, find and anchor into a stud instead. |
| Hole tears and crumbles around the edges | Too much pressure when drilling. Bit too aggressive. Plasterboard is fragile. | Use light pressure and a sharp HSS bit. Gentle handling. If the board is damaged, patch with filler before fixing. |
| Bit gets stuck or catches on something hard | You’ve hit something behind the plasterboard (brick, metal, timber stud, old nail) | Back out slowly. You’ve probably hit the wall structure behind. This is actually good—you can anchor there. Switch to the appropriate bit (masonry for brick, metal bit for metal, wood bit for stud). |
| Toggle anchor won’t hold weight | Wrong size toggle or using a toggle designed for lighter loads | Use larger toggles (size M6 or M8 for heavy work). Check load rating. Distribute weight across multiple anchors if needed. |
| Cannot find studs in new modern plasterboard | May be metal studs instead of timber, or studs are not on standard 400/600mm centres | Use electronic stud finder (works better on modern walls). Listen for density changes. Or use strong cavity fixings instead—they’re rated for heavy loads anyway. |
Plasterboard Fixings Strength Comparison
| Fixing Type | Typical Load Rating | Best Use | Removable | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spring Toggle (M6) | 15–20 kg | Heavy shelves, TV brackets | No (stays in wall) | £0.50–£1.00 each |
| Butterfly Anchor | 10–15 kg | Shelves, light fixtures | Partially (tricky) | £0.20–£0.50 each |
| Self-Drill Cavity Fixing | 10–20 kg | General purpose, quick work | Yes (pull out) | £0.30–£0.80 each |
| Screw into Timber Stud | 30+ kg | Heavy items (shelves, brackets) | Yes | Negligible (wood screw) |
| Plastic Plug + Screw (in Brick) | 20–40 kg | Heavy items (only in solid brick walls) | Yes | £0.10–£0.30 each |
Step-by-Step: Hanging a Heavy Shelf on Plasterboard
- Locate studs using a magnetic stud finder. Studs are typically 400–600mm apart.
- If you can position two shelf brackets over studs: Drill through plasterboard into the studs and screw directly in (wood screws). This is the strongest method (30+ kg capacity per stud).
- If you can’t hit studs: Use spring toggles (15–20 kg each) or heavy-duty self-drill cavity fixings. Position brackets over solid plasterboard, not over the center of a cavity stud space.
- Drill carefully through plasterboard with an HSS bit (3–4mm). Use light pressure.
- Insert anchors (toggles or cavity fixings) as per manufacturer instructions.
- Mount shelf brackets onto the anchors and tighten.
- Test before loading: Apply some weight by hand to ensure it’s solid.
Amazon: Cavity Wall Fixings Assortment Packs on Amazon UK
See also: What Drill Bit for Masonry
See also: Wall Plug Drill Bit Size Guide
See also: Drill Bit Size Chart
Watch: Video Guide
Frequently Asked Questions
What drill bit do I use for plasterboard?
Standard HSS (High Speed Steel) twist bits work perfectly for plasterboard. Masonry bits also work. The key is light pressure—plasterboard is soft and crumbles easily if you push too hard. Speed isn’t critical (2000–3000 RPM is fine).
Can I screw directly into plasterboard?
You can screw into plasterboard, but it won’t hold weight for long. Plasterboard alone has no grip—the screw will loosen over time. Always use proper cavity fixings (toggles, anchors) in hollow walls, or anchor into the timber/brick behind the plasterboard.
Why does my shelf keep sagging?
You’re using the wrong fixing or undersized anchors. Plasterboard alone (without cavity fixings) won’t hold a shelf. Use spring toggles or heavy-duty cavity fixings rated for your shelf weight. Better yet, find and anchor into the studs behind the plasterboard—they’re much stronger.
How do I know if the wall behind plasterboard is brick or stud?
Tap the wall. Hollow ring = stud cavity (use cavity fixings). Solid thud = brick or block (use masonry bit and standard plugs). You can also drill a small test hole and feel what you hit—timber feels like wood, brick is hard and gritty, metal studs feel like steel.
Can I use a Rawl plug on plasterboard?
Plastic Rawl plugs don’t work in hollow plasterboard cavities—there’s nothing for them to expand into. They only work if you’re drilling into solid brick or block behind the plasterboard. For cavity walls, use cavity wall fixings instead (toggles or self-drill anchors).
What’s the weight limit for cavity wall fixings?
Spring toggles: 15–25 kg each. Butterfly anchors: 10–15 kg each. Self-drill cavity fixings: 10–20 kg each. If you’re hanging something heavier, find a stud (can hold 30+ kg) or use multiple fixings spaced along the shelf bracket.
